there is one yucca that is hardy for northern climates: yucca filamentosa (common name–Adam’s needle) try growing 1 or 2 as strong focal points.

a patio made of terra cotta colored tiles (you can get cement blocks dyed terracotta now too) would give your yard a S.W. flair. also having a chimmenia (wood-burning terra cotta stove) on the patio would add some functional and visual interest.

black wrought-iron or twig patio furniture with some navajo print throws would add a splash of bold color. A small fountain could work, but just make sure it is not too elaborite or "greek" looking. choosing a terra cotta over white or gray in all your pots and statuary, patio blocks, etc. will help create the S.W. feeling.

some annual plants you could grow that would fit the theme are:
-sunflowers (many varieties ranging in height from 1 foot to 8 feet, and ranging in color from white thru all the yellows and oranges to red and burgundy)–you could easily do a whole yard in just sunflower varieties alone.
-california poppies (bright orange and drought tolerant)
-rudbeckia (large, bright golden yellow daisies, the best rudbeckia is a variety called "Indian summer" its 2 1/2 feet tall)
-gazania (short, brightly colored daisies with jagged leaves; comes in hot colors)

some perrenials for a S.W. themed garden:
-sedum-succulent leaves; they look like desert plants but are perfectly hardy for northern gardens (come in many many varieties ranging in height from 1 inch to 1 foot), the small ones make excellent groundcover or to grow amongst rocks–make sure and get the ones that have yellow or white flowers.
-hens and chicks- succulent leaves, these are very tough and hardy little plants, they look just like tiny aloe vera plants. they are very drought resistant and will grow on the surface of a rock or between paving stones and patio blocks.(about 2-4 inches tall, and spread very quickly).

it would also look great to have a few pots of herbs on your patio. sage, rosemary, lavender, thyme. the silvery gray-green leaves look awesome in terra cotta pottery or strawberry jars.

I’d be real careful about adding accents like wagon wheels, lanterns, split rail fences, etc. or you’ll end up with the rustic country bumpkin look instead of true southwestern.

use terra cotta wherever possible
choose plants that bloom in yellow, orange, white, (a little red is okay) and that have grey-green leaves or succulent leaves.
keep the ornamentation to a minimum and keep it plain and simple and not at all classical or European.
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professional gardener

A Concept Plan isn’t too expensive, and should include a general design layout and a list of plants to use for different situations. Unfortunately I’m probably not licensed in your State. I have done a lot of work in the Las Vegas area woking with someone who was licensed in Nevada, so am quite experienced in that style of design and won a couple of awards on projects I’ve worked on down there. I use a similar design here, which is probably a similar climate to where you are.

Click on my profile and e-mail me and give me the specifics on where you are, I may be able to recommend someone in your area.
References :

Thanks

MyCityLandscapers.com

Also, many ground cover flower in the spring and can handle the areas under trees:

http://www.oldhouseweb.com/gardening/filling-bald-spots-in-your-garden.shtml

Try local http://www.craigslist.com
for people who want to swap plants or are giving them away.
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If you have sulphur in your water odds are your going to need some lime

Most veggies like a pH between 6.5 and 7.0

Try this link

http://plantfacts.ohio-state.edu/
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Ferns add green anywhere, many can survive your area and still stay green throught the winter.

Annuals will also add some nice seasonal color.

For coastal and southern north carolia a jelly palm would be perfect to add a little color but will need some extra sun.
References :

http://www.watergarden.com/

http://www.pondliner.com

http://www.thepondguy.com

Buy a mag-drive pump, they are usually the best choice.

These sites also sell weir boxes that help provide a smooth flow of water at the start of the water fall and are rated for various flow rates. This way if you have an idea how wide you want the fall to be, you can control it by the weir box you purchase.
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I live in Texas, so my plants would be different but go native for your area. It will be easier and more rewarding.

I don’t like much of a lawn, but you can use seeds again for grass or pay up for turf and install yourself. Focus on a perenial garden which will come back year after year and add to it when time and money allows. Good luck.
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"When checking if a certain garden is suitable for solar powered water fountain, there are two aspects that will determine if a garden is suitable. The first aspect is pretty obvious, the weather conditions and level of sun exposure……… The other aspect is the landscaping of the garden, particularly surrounding the solar water fountain…"
This was taken from http://www.onlinesolarpanels.com/solar-garden-fountains.php
References :
http://www.onlinesolarpanels.com/solar-garden-fountains.php

Research each plant you select for preferred pH ranges and adjust your soil pH with lime or sulphur (up or down, respectively). A good soil test would be an excellent idea.

A local garden center visit with some of your soil might be a good idea for tips on what to add.

Your question is good with lots of info supplied, but I can’t help much. Sorry!

Good Gardening!
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You need to have a landing so the basic deck frame is a good place to look for structure. If you want a short run, the first link will show you what that will look like – for a longer run, you need longer stringers…basically a fairly fast moving slide show – good for visual aid, has dimensions and can be replayed.

Second link is more of a how to with no pictures, the steps being the last part discussed.

Third link is there for you to familiarize yourself with staircase lingo – will help give you a better understanding for what you’re undertaking.

Forth link is a stair stringer design calculator.

Before you start, check to see if you need a permit for your area – and – if you need to have cement footings for the stringers. Better to be safe than sorry!

Once the plan is underway, be certain that the ground is level – both for the frame and the stringers when those are attached.

I hope this helps you – best of luck!
References :
Married to a carpenter – worked for a General Contractor.

http://www.slaughlin.com/steps/
http://sutherlands.com/mnpro6.php
http://www.stairsupplies.com/eng/resources/How_to_build_stairs/stair_anatomy
http://www.shalla.net/?gclid=CLSDwoSMi5QCFRcZsgod0ifjWA

I know of no solar powered self-contained pump for filtration, though. I have a still-water pond, so the solar fountain is just fine. If you want a filter to be powered, you’ll need to spend money on a more extensive array, including electric storage, so that it will run when the sun is NOT shining. I have not seen them available.
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Hopefully you can find a used one someplace…Good Luck
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[EDIT] I’m in the middle of doing this. Once I got several ideas I used colored pencils and graph paper to map out my thoughts. I realized I needed prices so that was the first step. You might want to do the walkway first if you’re using slabs of stone which can get pricey. Plus, unless you can get the sand for underneath and spread it by yourself, you’ll need to hire someone. Flowers and trees could come next year. Hint: in the fall nurseries reduce prices on annuals, bushes, shrubs, trees and bulbs–great time to buy. I found nurseries are better than catalogs because the nursery’s plants are grown for your climate and water conditions.

[EDIT] BE aware your garden areas won’t begin to look like the pictures–they remove the old plants and literally cram in new plants fresh from the nursery when they’re doing a photo shoot. That’s why all the photos look so great. Be aware certain magazines cater to the West Coast which may not be suitable for plants in your area.
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other thing: if the root goes deep under ground, it doesn’t affected with something that grow on the surface.

if something wrong, just put some manure. it’ll helps a lot.
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The herbacides that are used to kill grass for residential use are usually the type that get on the green leaves, and cause the plant to choke out. Once the herbacide hits the dirt, it becomes ineffective.

So, you should be able to scratch the surface of your dirt, spread some lawn seed (the type depends on your location and preference). Rake it in again, to slightly cover it, then water each day, for about 14 to 21 days. That should produce a new lawn.

Best of luck. If you name the herbacide that he used, it could be checked to see if what I said is true.
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I would get some lawn food and feed and water it, grass is very Hard to kill.
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